Click MAP to locate destinations preceded by yellow numbers.

Elegant Nob Hill is a compact area of first-class hotels, a historic mansion, Grace Cathedral, and a working cable car barn. Start down below with breakfast at 46 Sears Fine Foods Restaurant (439 Powell; 415-986-1160), known for its Swedish pancakes and generous portions. If you head up California St. to Mason, the 47 Mark Hopkins Hotel is on your left, and, on your right, 48 the Fairmont Hotel and 49 the Flood Mansion (now the exclusive Pacific Union Club). Across the street is the 50 Huntington Hotel. At 51 Grace Cathedral, seat of the Episcopal bishop of California, notice the Rose Window, the Doors of Paradise (full-scale replicas of the Ghiberti doors in Florence) and, in the courtyard, the Labyrinth, which offers only one route to its center, a trial-and-error journey that is said to cleanse the spirit.

52 The Cable Car Museum (1201 Mason; 415-474-1887) has a collection of vintage cable cars, memorabilia, historic photographs and a room for watching the complex system of cables in operation.

53 Old St. Mary's Church (California and Grant Ave.), California's first cathedral, was built in 1886. Across the street in St. Mary's Square is sculptor Beniamino Bufano's stainless steel and rose granite 54 statue of early 20th century Chinese revolutionary leader Sun Yat Sen.

55 Grant Ave., Chinatown's central artery, runs for eight blocks from Bush to Columbus. This bustling community spokes out into nearby streets, all of them crammed not only with gift shops and restaurants for visitors, but with food markets and the neighborhood residents who also shop here.

Back in Union Square, browse through the many 56 art galleries on Geary, Post and Sutter streets. For specific shows and artists, check the free bimonthly Gallery Guide, available in most galleries.

To get to the 57 Civic Center, an architectural blend of contemporary and early 20th-century beaux-arts buildings, walk to Market and take any bus or one of the F-Line historic streetcars. Most of the fleet's 28 multihued, lovingly restored cars were built in the '40s and '50s but one dates from 1896. Get off at Eighth St. for 58 United Nations Plaza, which commemorates the 1945 signing of the U.N. charter in the nearby War Memorial Opera House.

The west end of the plaza is dominated by the gilt and copper-domed 59 City Hall, built in 1915. Facing it is 60 the 1894 Pioneer Monument, symbolizing California settlement and one of the city's largest historical statues. On Wednesdays and Sundays, the plaza is the site of a colorful 61 Farmers' Market, its abundant seasonal foods reflecting the cuisine of the many Southeast Asians and Filipinos living nearby.

The beaux-arts building under construction is the 62 old Main Library, future home of the Asian Art Museum. The interior of 63 the new Main Library (Larkin and Grove; 415-557-4400), light and spacious, contains notable public art works: "Constellation," a five-story wall of lamps inscribed with authors' names; murals of catalog cards annotated in different languages by local readers; and the conical "Fantasy and Functional Stairway." For lunch or a beverage, stop by the Library Cafe or, for steaming cappuccinos and Italian-style sandwiches, try the charming 64 Caffe Trinity (1145 Market; 415-864-3333).

At 65 the Civic Auditorium, renamed Bill Graham Auditorium to honor the late rock-n-roll impresario, a 10-year project is underway: the "Bammie Walk of Fame," commemorating popular music stars on sidewalk plaques. In front of the modern 66 Louise Davies Symphony Hall (Van Ness and Grove) is the bronze "Large Four Piece Reclining Figure" by British sculptor Henry Moore. Tours of Davies Symphony Hall and the nearby War Memorial Opera House (301 Van Ness; 415-552-8338) are offered Mondays 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

Herbst Theater, in 67 the War Memorial Veterans Building, is home to City Arts and Lectures’ year-round programs (415-563-2463) and many of San Francisco Performances’ (415-398-6449) presentations of world-class and local artists. Also in the War Memorial 8eterans Building are the San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery (401 Van Ness; 415-554-6080), featuring Bay Area artists, and San Francisco Performing Arts Library and Museum (415-255-4800), archives of the city’s performing arts legacy.

On almost any given day, a major company performs in one of the Civic Center venues: the San Francisco Opera (415-864-3330) season extends from fall into Jan. with Summer Opera in July. San Francisco Ballet (415-861-5600) productions begin in Dec. with "The Nutcracker" and run through the spring. The San Francisco Symphony (415-864-6000) performs at Davies Symphony Hall from fall through the spring. The Symphony and the San Francisco Arts Commission sponsor Summer in the City Concerts at Davies Hall (415-864-6000). Summers you also can catch off-season performances by the three major companies, plus some of the Bay Area's dynamic small musical and dance groups, at 68 the Stern Grove Summer Festival (415-252-6252), free Sunday afternoon outdoor concerts at 19th Ave. and Sloat Blvd.

F-Line restored historic streetcar on Market Street

Nyland Blake's "Constellation" in the Main Library

Michael Tilson Thomas conducts the San Francisco Symphony

San Francisco Opera,
Paolo Gavanelli as Rigoletto