Click MAP to locate destinations preceded by yellow numbers.

Start your grand tour of the West Coast's first major city South of Market, an eclectic mix of historic architecture, major museums, galleries, outdoor sculptures, performance spaces, cafes, restaurants, terraced gardens and dramatic bayfront vistas. Begin with breakfast at the elegant 1 Palace Hotel (Market and New Montgomery; 415-512-1111) in the soaring, glass-roofed Garden Court, a visual treat.

A block away is 2 St. Patrick's Catholic Church (756 Mission St.), a landmark 1851 gothic revival red brick building, a classic anachronism amid institutions of contemporary culture. On Wednesdays, the church hosts half-hour performances of chamber music, Noontime Concerts (415-777-3211). Sites adjacent to St. Patrick’s will be the future location of the Mexican Museum and the Jewish Museum.

3 California Historical Society, the official historical society of the state, (678 Mission St.; 415-357-1848) is a treasure-laden repository of printed, painted, photographic and three-dimensional materials. Its holdings include a 5,000-piece fine arts collection; 35,000 books and pamphlets; 3,700 maps, posters and broadsides; 3,500 unpublished letters, diaries and manuscripts from Gold Rush-era miners, settlers and prominent 19th century businessmen; 450,000 photographic prints; and 43,000 film and glass plate negatives. The library is open to the public by appointment only on Wed.; exhibition space and bookstore are open Tue.-Sun.

4 Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (701 Mission St.; 415-978-2700) and its six-acre gardens occupy an entire block. The center is home to three contemporary art galleries, a 750-seat theater and a 350-seat multiuse forum. In the gardens, lined with quirky contemporary sculpture, the city presents free outdoor plays, cultural art festivals and other events. Programs indoors, at the Performing Arts Theater, include local and international dance and theater performances with evening shows and matinees. Display and performance information is available at kiosks inside the plaza.

5 The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (151 Third St.; 415-357-4000), originally established in 1935 as California's first museum of 20th century art, has been reincarnated by famed architect Mario Botta. SFMOMA's four stories of temporary exhibitions and permanent collections are open until 9 p.m. on Thur., closed Wed. Live jazz and blues is featured 6-9 p.m. on the third Thursday of each month. Caffe Museo and the well-stocked bookstore/gift shop are on the main floor.

6 Ansel Adams Center for Photography (655 Mission St.; 415-495-7000), headquarters of the Friends of Photography, was founded in 1967 by Adams and other artists and historians to encourage the development of creative photography. Besides maintaining the Ansel Adams permanent collection, the Friends host traveling exhibitions, publish catalogs, monographs and critical anthologies, and present educational programs.

7 The Embarcadero Promenade, renamed Herb Caen Way after the late San Francisco Chronicle columnist, offers history, architecture, public art and splendid waterfront views. Before the Golden Gate and Bay bridges were built, the 8 Ferry Building was the city's transit hub. Ferries still carry residents and tourists between the city and points east and north.

South of the Ferry Building piers are even-numbered; north they are odd-numbered. As you walk south toward Pier 40, note the 9 Promenade Ribbon, a linear sculpture that eventually will extend 2 1/2 miles; the 10 Historic Interpretive Signage Project of plaques and illustrated pylons; and, at Pier 32, the World War II Liberty ship 11 the Jeremiah O'Brien (it moves to Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 45, April-October).

12 Pier 40 is the site of grassy South Beach Park and Mark di Suvero's 60-foot stainless steel sculpture, "Sea Change." For waterfront refreshment, choose the 13 Pier 40 Roastery & Cafe (415-495-3815) or the Java House (415-495-7260). The latter, plus Red’s Java House at Pier 30, date from an era when shipping was big business in the city and each pier had its own Java House.

From Pier 40, walk to 14 South Park, a tranquil square surrounded by stately, restored Georgian houses, once the dwellings of 19th-century cattle kings, senators and other powers. Today, South Park is a mix of private homes and small enterprises, including cafes and restaurants that cater to "multimedia gulch" workers. At the south end of Jack London Alley, at Third and Brannan, a 15 plaque on the Wells Fargo building marks the birthplace of the famous writer.

San Francisco at night

M.L. King Memorial Waterfall at Yerba Buena Center

Promenade Ribbon sculpture south of the Ferry Building

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

"Sea Change" by Mark di Suvero