Mission is San Francisco’s only street that runs the length of the city, changing character with each neighborhood it passes through. South beyond Division St., it takes on its Latino accent amid the most ethnically diverse commerce in the city: Chinese fish markets, Salvadoran fruit and vegetable stores, Filipino food stands, Vietnamese groceries, Mexican jewelers, and on and on.

For Nicaraguan cuisine, try 26 Las Tinajas Restaurant (2338 Mission; 415-695-9933) featuring charbroiled meats and zesty seafoods. Lunch specialties change daily and the soups satisfy.

When it comes to salsa or any other music with a Latin beat, 27 Ritmo Latino (2401 Mission; 415-824-8556), part of a chain with 18 stores in California, offers the city's largest collection of Spanish compact discs and tapes. At listening posts you can sample from among thousands of titles before buying.

28 Lucky Pork Store (2659 Mission; 415-285-3611) offers cuts of meat not available in local supermarkets: legs of goat, blood by the pound, cow lips and every piece of the pig from snout to tail, unusual cuts for delicious ethnic meals. Across the street at 29 23rd and Mission Produce (2700 Mission; 415-285-7955) is displayed a wide variety of fruit and vegetables with the atmosphere of a mini farmer’s market.

30 Taquería San Jose (2830 Mission; 415-282-0203), one of three by this name in the city, is the choice of the former S.F. Examiner Sunday crew, who feasted on San Jose’s burritos every Fri. night for 12 years.

In the block between 24th and 25th streets are two bakeries that do such a booming business that you stand in line to be served. 31 King’s Bakery Cafe (2846 Mission; 415-282-4550) offers peasant-like pastries, rolls and breads. 32 Dianda’s (2883 Mission; 415-647-5469) sells creamy-rich Italian pastries with tira misu a specialty. The nearby 33 Mission Cultural Center (2868 Mission; 415-821-1155) features live performances and workshops for the community.

Across César Chávez St., into the northern or Outer Mission District, is 34 Lelenita’s Cakes (3743 Mission; 415-282-2253) with custom-made cakes for every special occasion. A highlight is tres leches cake made with three types of milk: whole, condensed and evaporated. In the store's finest hour, Oct. 3, 1987, King Juan Carlos of Spain visited the city and Lelenita's made a huge sheet cake emblazoned with the royal crest.

Pupusas are a specialty at the Salvadoran 35 La Santaneca (3781 Mission; 415-648-1034). Across the street at 36 Adelita's Cakes & Bakery (3780 Mission; 415-824-4584) be sure to try the Nicaraguan ices in six fresh fruit flavors.

37 Fiesta (4268 Mission) is a tiny shop chock-full of piñatas of all sizes and types, from flying saucers to princesses, made to order as well as ready-made (from a craftsman in San Jose and imported from Mexico). It also sells palos sticks, crepe paper-covered bats to break open the piñatas. On the wall behind the counter is a reproduction of a Diego Rivera piñata party that shows kids hitting the piñata and chili peppers, onions and other comestibles spilling out. Owner Maria says they’ll put ANYTHING in a piñata.

For night-time fun, call the 38 Victoria Theatre (2961 16th St.; 415-863-7576), home of Cine Latino festival in September. Or go to 39 Roccapulco Night Club (3140 Mission; 415-648-6611), the biggest salsa dance club in San Francisco with hot live bands on weekends. Across the street, for Salvadoran seafood and great ambience, try Brisas de Acapulco (3137 Mission; 415-826-1496).