Above the 1 Chinatown Gate at Bush and Grant is the inscription: “All un­ der Heaven is for the good of the people.” Chinatown, San Francisco’s densest neighborhood, runs roughly 8 blocks long and 6 blocks wide. Settled in the 1860s by Chinese immigrant railroad workers, miners and farm laborers, Chinatown was leveled by the ‘06 quake. Gradually rebuilt, this packed neighborhood has been home to Chinese Americans for 130 years.

At Grant and California St., 2 two pagoda-like buildings — the Sing Chong Building and the Sing Fat Building — face the 1853 gothic revival 3 Old St. Mary’s, built by Chinese laborers. In St. Mary’s Square is sculptor Beniamino Bufano’s stainless steel and rose granite statue of 4 early 20th century Chinese revolutionary leader Sun Yat-sen.

If you’re looking for jewelry and sculpture, start your shopping at the 5 China Gem Co. (500 Grant; 415-397-5070). Up Sacramento a half-block is Waverly Place and the 6 Clarion Music Center (816 Sacramento; 415-391-1317), which demonstrates and sells many different Chinese instruments. Note the 7 Taoist Tien Hou Temple on the top floor of 125 Waverly. The 8 Canton Bazaar (616 Grant; 415-362-5750) has sculpture, ceramics and furniture. At 9 Kee Fung Ng Gallery (757 Grant; 415-434-1844) you can have “chops” — sealing stones with your name in Chinese and English — made while you wait.

Rest awhile­ in 10 Portsmouth Square (Kearny St. between Clay and Washington) where children romp and the el­ derly play Chinese chess. When San Francisco was still Yerba Buena in the 1840s, this was the town square. Take the foot bridge across Kearny to the Holiday Inn. On the third floor is the 11 Chinese Culture Center (750 Kearny; 415-986-1822), which hosts art exhibits and performances, provides genealogical research and gives guided tours through Chinatown.

12 Man Hing Arts of China (839 Grant; 415-989-5824) and 13 Wai Hing (829 Grant; 415-956-8522) sell beautiful ceramics and carved ivory and jade items, and across the street the 14 China Trade Center (838 Grant; 415-837-1509), flanked by impressive sentinel lions, carries many types of fine arts. For original Chinese paintings and furniture, find your way to Wentworth Alley, off Grant and Jackson, and 15 Y.K. Lau Studio and Y.K. Lau Furniture (20 and 30 Wentworth). The owner of 16 Stylers Art Gallery (661 Jackson; 415-788-8639) will demonstrate Chinese calligraphy and painting. If you’re hungry, head to the 17 New Asia Dim Sum Restaurant (772 Pacific; 415-391-6666) for Chinese breakfast pastries and tea.

Walk over to 18 Stockton St., which is grocery central; scores of shops feature the array of fresh foods so important in Chinese cuisine: chickens, ducks, pigeons, frogs, turtles, crabs, mussels, geoducks, catfish, squid, and melons, greens and fruit of every hue. At Stockton near Pacific, look for the 19 soaring mural by Darryl Mar that graces the side of Ping Yuen housing project.

20 Eastwind Arts & Books (1435 Stockton; 415-772-5888) carries the city’s largest selection of Chinese and other Asian literature. End your tour at the 21 Chinese Historical Society of America (965 Clay, Suite 402; 415-391-1188), which has the most extensive collection of Chinese American artifacts in America.