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Most edgy San Franciscans don't eat breakfast, but, if you're hungry, go to 1 Red Dora's Bearded Lady Women's Cafe (485 14th St.; 415-626-2805), open to all despite its name. If it's not raining, sit in the backyard patio with the ever-present dogs, and order healthy, inexpensive food from the simple menu that includes peanut butter and jam sandwiches. A gallery and sometimes performance space, Bearded Lady also sells T-shirts with campy lesbian sayings or personalized dog tags for you and your pet. For more traditional greasy fare, slide up to the counter at 2 Eddie's Cafe (800 Divisadero; 415-563-9780) for a true San Francisco multicultural experience while you eat your eggs, biscuits, hash browns and soul food — served up by an all-Asian staff — among mostly young, mostly white neighborhood newcomers sitting alongside a few older African Americans.

Few galleries open before noon, so visit the murals at the 3 Clarion Alley Mural Project (off Valencia between 17th and 18th streets), and the 4 Women's Building (3543 18th St.). Wherever you are in the city, keep an eye out for Billboard Liberation Front's handiwork: wheat-pasted poems and manifestos, and graffiti tags and stickers. Check the agenda at 5 CellSpace/Crucible Steel Gallery (2050 Bryant; 415-648-7562), which has an awesome commitment to the next generation of multicultural artists. And there's 6 848 Community Space (848 Divisadero; 415-922-2385), a polycultural, interdisciplinary site for experiments in performance, activism, art, community and ritual, plus a hot Tuesday nite dance jam for contact improvisers. Too bad you missed the Naked Nude Art Show: 300 naked nudists looking at naked art.

The edgiest art isn't in galleries – it's in artists' apartments and old warehouse spaces. Think of it as a treasure hunt. Look for posters on the street. Maybe you'll need a guide. So find one. True edgy people are eclectic and can be found drinking brews, hanging with the new young turks at 7 An Bodhrán in the lower Haight (668 Haight St.; 415-431-4724) or 8 The Edinburgh Castle (950 Geary near Polk; 415-885-4074) or out in a cafe or neighborhood bar — they're too cool to traipse into the Castro, Haight or Mission to sit with suburban wannabes.

Choices multiply as the sun goes down. On the calendar for the 99-seat theater at 9 Intersection for the Arts (446 Valencia; 415-626-3311) might be a play, solo performance, poetry reading by a local experimental writer or visiting literary star, or even a panel discussion about the definition of edgy art. 10 Luna Sea Women's Performance Project (2940 16th St.; 415-863-2989) is the kind of space every town should have but doesn't — real, direct, community-based, ex-perimental, cross-cultural, sexy, smart, beautiful art created and produced by women.

If it's Tuesday, go to 11 The Stud (399 9th St.; 415-252-7883) for Trannyshack: classic drag lipsynch to experimental performance art fusing super-camp with high-concept, low-budget horror schlock and retro zaniness — anything's possible here, where Heklina is the mistress of ceremonies.

The best bar for gay men of all ages and edges is 12 Hole in the Wall (289 8th St.; 415-431-4695), the real thing and a faux-retro 70s biker bar with older dudes sporting ZZ Top beards and younger punks who outnumber the gym queens — definitely the widest age and body type range of any men's bar in the city. The dj spins rock 'n roll of all eras, strictly no house/techno/disco/Broadway. Bonus: get all naked and drink for free. There's always one guy who goes for this. For bike messenger punk bands, the best bet is 13 Bottom of the Hill (1233 17th St.; 415-621-4455). Lots of bands with names you love to say, even if you never go see them.

Is it time for breakfast again? For hearty American fare, find your way to 14 the Grubstake (1525 Pine; 415-673-8268), a classic diner in a railroad car open until 4 a.m. daily.

Keith Hennessy

Buto-Sha Tenkai (Chickens in the Sky) at Theater Artaud

Red Dora's Bearded Lady
Women's Cafe

Pieces of the Quilt at Intersection for the Arts